6.5 Advanced lash application techniques

You should now be comfortable and confident with your classic lash application, creating fans, and lash wrapping techniques. It is now time to progress onto the four advanced lash application techniques of Russian volume, mega volume, hybrid and textured classic.

Russian volume

You will recall from previous lessons that when applying Russian volume lash extensions you will utilise a fan (2D-6D) of relatively small diameter lash extensions (generally 0.05 or 0.07mm) created via one of the four methods demonstrated in the previous lesson. And, to attach each fan to a natural lash, you will utilise the technique known as lash wrapping.

In terms of the treatment process from end to end, these are the only differences between completing a Russian volume set and a classic lash set.

Watch the below AED video to see an entire set of Russian volume lash extensions applied to a model.

Mega volume

Again, you will recall from previous lessons that the only difference between Russian and mega volume is the how many lashes (up to 16D!) are used to create your fan. By virtue of this fact, in order for a natural lash to be able to safely support this size fan, lash extensions of a thinner diameter (0.03mm and 0.05mm) must be used.

However, once again, in terms of the treatment process from end to end, these are the only differences between completing a mega volume set and a classic lash set.

Watch the below AED video to see an entire set of mega volume lash extensions applied to a model.

Hybrid

If you want the best of both worlds, hybrid lashes are a fantastic option. Hybrid lashes are also referred to as a mixed set, American volume, Kardashian lashes or combination lashes. They use the classic lash application and a volume application, generally, in a 50/50 mix. However, this ratio is absolutely not set in stone and with some experience you may like to experiment with different ratios of classic to volume depending on your client’s natural lash density, length and lash goals.

In terms of application, you have clearly already learned the techniques in previous lessons, and also above in this lesson.

Watch the below AED video to see an entire set of hybrid lash extensions applied to a model.

Textured classic

Once again, you will recall form previous lessons that textured classic lashes are designed to achieve a natural yet fluffy effect. This is achieved by using a cluster of lash extensions (0.03mm to 0.05mm, as with volume lashes) that are not fanned out like in a volume set. In addition to adding some subtle volume to a set of classic lashes, this technique also results in greater retention than classic lashes due to the wrapping of the cluster around a natural lash.

In terms of practical application, the textured classic set is identical to a volume set without the need to create a fan.

Watch the below AED video to see an entire set of textured classic lash extensions applied to a model.

Ask any lash technician, and they will tell you how challenging volume sets can be. Even the most skilled among us still get split bases and struggle with lash wraps. Practice makes perfect, so get started!


Practical activity

  1. Using your mannequin head, practice each advanced technique at least three (3) times using different fans, curls and styling. For the purpose of this activity, find images online of people of varying ages, ethnicities and eye shapes and create a treatment plan and lash map tailored to these characteristics, and then complete lash sets in accordance with your plan.

DO NOT progress to practicing any lash extension application technique on a live model until you have submitted and passed your first Major Assignment (see next lesson for details and submission point). It is CRITICAL that you are deemed competent to safely apply lash extensions on your practice mannequin head before progressing to treating models, regardless of how close you are to these people. Lash adhesive is a medical grade bonding agent, and incorrect application onto natural lashes (or eyelids!) can cause serious injury.

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