Now that you have been introduced to providing services to real people on real nails with your gel manicure and pedicure, it is time to progress to more advanced nail enhancements on models. The first of these will be applying acrylic overlays.
As you will recall from a previous lesson, overlays are where gel or acrylic is applied to the natural nail but does not exceed the natural nail length. Overlays can be great for people with brittle nails who do not necessarily want additional length, but want strength.
Before we move on and look at applying acrylic and gel products to real nails in the next two lessons, it is worth revisiting some of the differences between the two.
Acrylic nails
Gel nails
– Acrylic nails are beautiful but do not offer that glossy finish like gel – Acrylic nails cure in ambient air and natural light once applied to the natural nail – Acrylic nails give off a strong smell during application – Acrylic nails are hard-wearing but not as flexible as gel – Acrylic nails can be filed off or soaked in acetone and buffed off – Applied using natural-hair brushes
– Gel nails have a glossy and more natural appearance on the hands – Gel nails, on the other hand, require exposure to UV or LED light cure – Gel nails are odourless – Gel nails have a natural finish and are lighter on the nails – Gel nails need to be filed off completely since the product doesn’t dissolve in acetone – Applied using synthetic brushes
You will come to develop your own preferences when it comes to gel and acrylics, however, the modern Professional Nail Technician will be expected to know how to apply both products.
One colour versus two colour acrylic application
When it comes to acrylic application, there are generally two techniques: one colour and two colour. As the name suggests, the one colour technique involves using a single colour acrylic powder (natural, clear or pink) for the entire nail. The two colour technique, unsurprisingly, involves using one of these same colours for the nail plate, and then a white acrylic powder around the free edge to provide a French manicure look.
Combining acrylic and gel products
Prior to gel products, an acrylic nail enhancement would be finished by buffing the surface of the acrylic to a high shine using a high grit nail file or buffer, before coating with nail polish. It is far more common today to finish a set of acrylic enhancements with either a clear top coat (for a natural looking finish), or with a coloured gel polish. This not only achieves a high-shine, durable finish, but saves time (and energy!) buffing the acrylic to a high shine.
In the below video tutorial, we demonstrate the application of a one colour acrylic overlay, finished with a clear gel finish.
Application process
Let’s recap the steps involved in providing an full set of acrylic overlays, finished with a clear gel finish:
Natural nail prep
Have your client wash their hands and nails with antibacterial soap and warm water. If hand-washing facilities unavailable, have them thoroughly sanitise with a gel or foam hand sanitiser.
Examine your client’s nails and fingers for any contraindications that will prevent treatment. If present, discontinue your service and refer them to a medical professional.
Apply some acetone to a lint free nail wipe and thoroughly wide down each nail to remove any nail polish or natural oils. If removing nail polish, you will need multiple wipes with acetone applied.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently push back the cuticle from the nail plate. Examine each cuticle as you go to be sure there is no broken skin, as these areas will need to be treated with added caution.
Turn your cuticle pusher around and use the blade to gently scrape away any remaining cuticle.
Using your cuticle nippers, trim any loose cuticle that has lifted from the nail plate.
If required, trim away excess nail length with your nail clippers.
Using your 180 grit nail file, scuff the surface of each nail ready for product application before shaping the nails to the desired shape.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Apply dehydrator to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail.
Acrylic overlays
Apply acrylic sequentially to zones 1, 2 and 3 on each nail, ensuring you apply adequate product to be able to file them to achieve a symmetrical C curve from side wall to side wall, and an apex at the point where zones 2 and 3 intersect.
Once cured, using your 100 grit nail file, shape your nails to achieve the desired structure. Constantly pause and turn your client’s nail to view it from all angles to assess the formation of your structure.
Using your block buffer, buff the surface of each nail.
Using your 240 grit nail file, further buff the surface of each nail.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Apply nail cleanser to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail.
Gel finish
Apply an even coat of gel base coat to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply gel top coat to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Using your 180 grit nail file, give the underside of the free edge, and the side walls, a gentle file in order to remove any cured gel product from these areas.
Apply nail cleanser to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail to remove any dust.
Place a single drop of cuticle oil at the base of each nail and massage into the cuticles.
Practical Exercise
Please do not attempt to complete the below Practical Exercise until you have thoroughly reviewed the above video tutorial multiple times and feel confident in your techniques.
In preparation for your next assignment, complete a full set of acrylic overlays with a gel finish on 2-3 friends or family. Feel free to add two coats of gel polish to your service (prior to your top coat) if your client would prefer a little colour in their life!