As mentioned in the previous lesson, when presented with grown-out enhancements you as a nail technician have two options:
Remove the enhancements altogether using one of the three removal techniques (drill off, foil or soak off); or
Provide an infill treatment
So how do you know which to choose?
Determining whether to remove enhancements altogether or perform an infill is a key decision for a nail technician and involves assessing several factors:
Growth and Length: If the client’s natural nails have grown significantly, and there is a visible gap between the cuticle and the existing enhancement, it may be time for a fill. In contrast, if the client desires a shorter length or a different shape, a complete removal might be more appropriate.
Condition of the Enhancements: Evaluate the condition of the existing enhancements. If there are signs of lifting, chipping, or damage, a complete removal followed by a new application may be necessary. On the other hand, if the enhancements are still in good condition, a fill may be sufficient.
Client’s Preference: Communicate with your client to understand their preferences and whether they want a new set or if they are satisfied with the current design. Some clients may prefer a fresh set, while others may want to maintain their current look.
Overall Nail Health: Consider the health of the natural nails. If there are signs of damage, thinning, or other issues, it may be advisable to remove the enhancements to allow the natural nails to recover before applying a new set.
Time and Budget Constraints: In some cases, clients may have time or budget constraints. If they are looking for a quicker and more cost-effective solution, an infill may be a suitable option.
By carefully assessing these factors and engaging in open communication with your client, you can make an informed decision whether to remove enhancements or perform an infill, ultimately ensuring client satisfaction and the health of the natural nails.
So what is an infill?
An infill nail treatment, also commonly known as a backfill or rebalance, is a procedure performed to maintain the appearance and integrity of artificial nails (acrylic, gel or a combination of both) as the natural nails grow out. The infill process involves addressing the regrowth area near the cuticle where the natural nail has extended beyond the original application.
Infill treatments are essential for maintaining the overall aesthetic of artificial nails, extending the life of enhancements, and ensuring the continued health of the natural nails. The frequency of infill appointments depends on the rate of natural nail growth, typically ranging from 2 to 3 weeks between sessions.
In the below video tutorial, we will firstly demonstrate the steps required to conduct an acrylic infill treatment.
Application process
Let’s recap the steps involved in providing an acrylic infill treatment:
Acrylic infills
Have your client wash their hands and nails with antibacterial soap and warm water. If hand-washing facilities unavailable, have them thoroughly sanitise with a gel or foam hand sanitiser.
Conduct a consultation with your client to determine their nail goals, as well as what product/s is/are present on their nails. Educate your client about what options are available to them.
Examine your client’s nails and fingers for any contraindications that will prevent treatment. If present, discontinue your service and refer them to a medical professional.
Insert your barrel drill bit into your E-drill and turn on the drill to a low setting. Using your E-drill, remove any gel top coats/unwanted product from zones 1 and 2, and remove any excess length.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently push back the cuticles from the nail plate.
Using your 100 grit nail file, file the free edge of your nail into shape, and then file the acrylic product so that it blends into the natural nail, being careful not to file the natural nail itself.
Insert your diamond cuticle drill bit into your E-drill and clean up around the cuticle area.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Apply a small amount of dehydrator to a lint free wipe and wipe down each nail.
Bring your acrylic system to your workspace.
Commencing in zone 3, or the regrowth zone around the cuticles, apply acrylic beads and pat and swipe up and over the existing acrylic.
Continue to apply acrylic beads to the intersection of zones 2 and 3 to form your apex, and pat and swipe into shape, ready for filing. Repeat this on each nail.
Once the nails have hardened sufficiently, using your 100 grit nail file, file each enhancement to achieve your desired apex and C-curve.
Smooth out the surface of each enhancement using your buffer block.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Apply a small amount of dehydrator to a lint free wipe and wipe down each nail.
Bring your LED light to your workspace. Apply a thin, even coat of gel base coat to the surface of each acrylic enhancement, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your LED light for 60 seconds.
Apply two coats of gel polish to each enhancement and cure under your LED light for 60 seconds per coat.
Using your 180 grit nail file, tidy up the side walls and bevel the free edge of each enhancement.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Massage a drop of cuticle oil into the cuticles of each nail.
Practical Exercise
Please do not attempt to complete the below Practical Exercise until you have thoroughly reviewed the above video tutorial multiple times and feel confident in your techniques.
In preparation for your next assignment, complete an acrylic infill treatment on a friend or family member (we recommend using one of the models that you used to practice your natural acrylic tips).