Now that you have seen, and had some practice completing, both gel and acrylic enhancements on natural tips, we will look at completing a slightly more advanced technique to achieve a full set of french acrylic tips. The primary difference with this set is the use of white (or French) tips, used to not only add length but act as the defining aesthetic feature of the finished nail.
Application process
Let’s recap the steps involved in providing a full set of French acrylic tips:
Natural nail prep (for damaged cuticles)
Have your client wash their hands and nails with antibacterial soap and warm water. If hand-washing facilities unavailable, have them thoroughly sanitise with a gel or foam hand sanitiser.
Examine your client’s nails and fingers for any contraindications that will prevent treatment. If present, discontinue your service and refer them to a medical professional.
Apply some acetone to a lint free nail wipe and thoroughly wide down each nail to remove any nail polish or natural oils. If removing nail polish, you will need multiple wipes with acetone applied.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently push back the cuticle from the nail plate. Examine each cuticle as you go to be sure there is no broken skin, as these areas will need to be treated with added caution.
Turn your cuticle pusher around and use the blade to gently scrape away any remaining cuticle.
Using your cuticle nippers, trim any loose cuticle that has lifted from the nail plate.
Using your 180 grit nail file, scuff the surface of each nail ready for product application.
[Critical step for a French finish] File down each nail to achieve the appropriate length, ensuring your white tip will cover the natural smile line (i.e. with approximately 2mm of nail extending beyond the natural smile line).
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Apply dehydrator to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail.
Attaching and preparing tips
Bring your box of tips to your treatment area and select an appropriate sized tip for each nail. Ensure each tip sits perfectly flush with each side wall. If a nail is between two tip sizes, select the larger (wider) tip and file down the side walls. Also ensure the artificial smile line created by the end of the tip covers the natural smile line by 2-3 mm, to allow for some room for growth.
Using your nail glue, glue each tip to the applicable natural nail.
Reconfirm with your client the desired length and shape, and then trim the tips using a tip cutter. Leave enough length to file into shape. To achieve an aesthetically-pleasing set of French tips, ensure there is less (length) white tip than pink, natural nail.
If required, mark the tips with a marker to assist with symmetry when filing into shape. Once marked, trim the corners of your tips with your nail scissors, again, leaving enough excess for shaping.
Using your 100 grit nail file, file each tip into shape [do not blend the tip into the natural nail!].
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Acrylic product application
Apply acrylic sequentially to zones 1, 2 and 3 on each nail and tip, ensuring you apply adequate product to be able to file them to achieve a symmetrical C curve from side wall to side wall, and an apex at the point where zones 2 and 3 intersect.
Once cured, using your 100 grit nail file, shape your nails to achieve the desired structure. Constantly pause and turn your client’s nail to view it from all angles to assess the formation of your structure.
Using your block buffer, buff the surface of each nail.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Apply nail cleanser to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail.
Gel finish
Apply an even coat of gel base coat to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply gel top coat to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Using your 180 grit nail file, give the underside of the free edge, and the side walls, a gentle file in order to remove any cured gel product from these areas.
Place a single drop of cuticle oil at the base of each nail and massage into the cuticles.
Practical Exercise
Please do not attempt to complete the below Practical Exercise until you have thoroughly reviewed the above video tutorial multiple times and feel confident in your techniques.
In preparation for your next assignment, complete a full set of French acrylic tips on 2-3 friends or family. Use models with varying natural nail characteristics, and try out some different lengths and nail shapes with your finished sets.