Now that you have a basic understanding of artificial nail tips, we will look at attaching a full set of tips before then preparing the tip for product placement, and then applying nail enhancement product (gel or acrylic).
In the below video tutorial, we will firstly look at a completing a full set of natural tips using gel product.
Application process
Let’s recap the steps involved in providing a full set of natural gel tips:
Natural nail prep (for damaged cuticles)
Have your client wash their hands and nails with antibacterial soap and warm water. If hand-washing facilities unavailable, have them thoroughly sanitise with a gel or foam hand sanitiser.
Examine your client’s nails and fingers for any contraindications that will prevent treatment. If present, discontinue your service and refer them to a medical professional. If you assess some damage/irritation to the cuticles, or any other condition/s that may not prevent treatment but may affect the outcome, discuss this with your client. Advise them of any risks to them or the quality of the treatment resulting from these conditions and ensure they are happy to proceed.
Apply some acetone to a lint free nail wipe and thoroughly wide down each nail to remove any nail polish or natural oils. If removing nail polish, you will need multiple wipes with acetone applied.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently push back the cuticle from the nail plate. Examine each cuticle as you go to be sure there is no broken skin, as these areas will need to be treated with added caution.
Using your 180 grit nail file, scuff the surface of each nail ready for product application before shaping the nails to the desired shape.
Using your E-drill (set to a low speed) with your diamond cuticle bit inserted, remove any remaining cuticle around the very edge of the nail.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Attaching and preparing tips
Bring your box of tips to your treatment area and select an appropriate sized tip for each nail. Ensure each tip sits perfectly flush with each side wall. If a nail is between two tip sizes, select the larger (wider) tip and file down the side walls.
Using your nail glue, glue each tip to the applicable natural nail.
Reconfirm with your client the desired length and shape, and then trim the tips using a tip cutter. Leave enough length to file into shape.
If required, mark the tips with a marker to assist with symmetry when filing into shape. Once marked, trim the corners of your tips with your nail scissors, again, leaving enough excess for shaping.
Using either a nail file or your e-drill, scuff the surface of each tip ready for product application.
Using your 100 grit nail file, file each tip into shape and blend into the natural nail surface.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Gel product application
Apply a thin coat of acid-free bonder to the natural nails on both hands. There is no need to apply this to the tips.
Apply an even coat of gel base coat to all nails and tips, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply a generous, even first coat of builder gel to all nails and tips, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply a generous, even second coat of builder gel to all nails and tips, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once you have applied a second coat, place more gel to build up the apex of each enhancement. Cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply a generous, even third coat of builder gel to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once you have applied a third coat, place more gel to build up the apex of each enhancement. Cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply nail cleanser to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail and tip to remove sticky residue left behind by builder gel.
Using your 180 grit nail file, shape your nails to achieve the desired structure. Constantly pause and turn your client’s nail to view it from all angles to assess the formation of your structure.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
[Damaged cuticles] Using your cuticle nippers, trim away any excess cuticle left in prep phase.
Brush away any remaining nail dust/cuticle with your nail brush.
Apply nail cleanser to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail in preparation for the final two coasts of product.
Apply an even layer of gel base coat to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply an even layer of gel top coat to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Using your 180 grit nail file, give the underside of the free edge, and the side walls, a gentle file to remove any cured gel product from these areas.
Place a single drop of cuticle oil at the base of each nail and massage into the cuticles.
Practical Exercise
Please do not attempt to complete the below Practical Exercise until you have thoroughly reviewed the above video tutorial multiple times and feel confident in your techniques.
In preparation for your next assignment, complete a full set of natural gel tips on 2-3 friends or family. Use models with varying natural nail characteristics, and try out some different lengths and nail shapes with your finished sets.