Now that you have had some practice applying acrylic overlays onto models, we will return to gel application and look at a gel overlay onto natural nails. By way of a recap, as you will recall from your theory, acrylic nail chemistry involves polymerisation (or curing) achieved by mixing acrylic powder and acrylic liquid. In contrast, gel product is pre-mixed and is cured under a UV or LED lamp for 1-2 minutes (depending upon the product and strength of lamp).
Again, as you will recall, acrylic enhancements were introduced in the 1950’s and were hugely popular, however gel products now dominate the market. The primary reason for this movement to gel nails is twofold: firstly, acrylic liquid have a strong smell that, while not harmful, is somewhat overpowering. Gel products, on the other hand, are all but odourless.
Secondly, cure time varies considerably between acrylic and gel systems. While traditional acrylic nails may feel hard and durable within a few minutes of application, they are not fully cured, generally, for 24-48 hours. Gel nails, on the other hand, are 99% cured once they are taken out from under your UV/LED lamp. In other words, due to gel nail’s quick curing time, your clients’ nails will not be as vulnerable to potential breaking and cracking associated with acrylic enhancements in the first 48 hours after treatment.
Applying gel enhancements is, generally speaking, also an easier skill for a nail-technician-in-training to master. This is primarily due to the fact gel products only cure when exposed to UV light, and therefore you can take your time applying them to the nails, tips or forms without having to worry about them curing before you have finished shaping.
In the below video tutorial, we demonstrate the application of gel overlays, finished with a clear gel finish.
Application process
Let’s recap the steps involved in providing a full set of natural gel overlays:
Natural nail prep
Have your client wash their hands and nails with antibacterial soap and warm water. If hand-washing facilities unavailable, have them thoroughly sanitise with a gel or foam hand sanitiser.
Examine your client’s nails and fingers for any contraindications that will prevent treatment. If present, discontinue your service and refer them to a medical professional.
Apply some acetone to a lint free nail wipe and thoroughly wide down each nail to remove any nail polish or natural oils. If removing nail polish, you will need multiple wipes with acetone applied.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently push back the cuticle from the nail plate. Examine each cuticle as you go to be sure there is no broken skin, as these areas will need to be treated with added caution.
Turn your cuticle pusher around and use the blade to gently scrape away any remaining cuticle.
Using your cuticle nippers, trim any loose cuticle that has lifted from the nail plate.
If required, trim away excess nail length with your nail clippers.
Using your 180 grit nail file, scuff the surface of each nail ready for product application before shaping the nails to the desired shape.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Apply dehydrator to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail.
Gel overlays
Apply a thin coat of acid-free bonder to the nails on both hands.
Apply an even coat of gel base coat to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply a generous, even first coat of builder gel to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply a generous, even second coat of builder gel to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once you have applied a second coat, place more gel to build up the apex of each enhancement. Cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply a generous, even third coat of builder gel to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once you have applied a third coat, place more gel to build up the apex of each enhancement. Cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply nail cleanser to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail to remove sticky residue left behind by builder gel.
Using your 180 grit nail file, shape your nails to achieve the desired structure. Constantly pause and turn your client’s nail to view it from all angles to assess the formation of your structure.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Using your 240 grit nail file, buff the surface of each nail.
Apply nail cleanser to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail to remove dust.
Apply gel top coat to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Using your 180 grit nail file, give the underside of the free edge, and the side walls, a gentle file to remove any cured gel product from these areas.
Apply nail cleanser to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail to remove any dust.
Place a single drop of cuticle oil at the base of each nail and massage into the cuticles.
Practical Exercise
Please do not attempt to complete the below Practical Exercise until you have thoroughly reviewed the above video tutorial multiple times and feel confident in your techniques.
In preparation for your next assignment, complete a full set of natural gel overlays on 2-3 friends or family. As with the previous Practical Exercise, feel free to add two coats of gel polish to your service (prior to your top coat) if your client would prefer a little colour in their life!