3.5 Lash application techniques

There are three common lash application techniques that you will learn how to apply in this course, depending on your clients desired look, preferences, and natural lashes. As a special bonus, we have also included a fourth technique exclusive to our Aesthetics ED students. The techniques you will use in this course are:

1. Classic lash application technique
2. Volume lash application techniques (this includes Russian and Mega volume)
3. Hybrid lash application technique
4. Textured classic lash application technique (exclusive to Aesthetics ED)

The exclusive textured classic lash technique uses a volume application – but with a creative twist! As we look at technique in more detail, see if you can envision the different sorts of clients that would suit each end look.

Classic lash application

The classic lash application technique is the traditional style of lash extensions and is most suitable for clients who want a natural look. This style of application will usually take anywhere from 1.5 to 2.5 hours and will leave your client with elegant, elongated, and natural-looking lashes. As mentioned previously, classic lashes are applied using a 1:1 ratio. Given that each lash is applied on top of one natural lash, classic lashes are typically larger in diameter and will usually range from 0.10mm to 0.15mm, with 0.20mm being a suitable option only for a select group of your clients with very coarse, healthy natural lashes.

The overall result of a classic lash application will be dependent on the length and diameter of your client’s natural lashes. For clients who are blessed with long and thick lashes, they can expect a fuller, more voluminous result.

To put this into perspective, in the two examples below, the same lash diameter was used (0.15mm), and the same length range was used (8-11mm). Can you spot the differences?

After carefully comparing each client, you may have noticed:

• Each client has lashes that are of different lengths, diameters and angles
• Example 1 has fewer lashes than Example 2 – 50 less, in fact!
• Placement of the lashes differ
• Example 2 has a more elongated wispy look, whereas Example 1 looks thicker and denser

All of your clients will have different eye shapes, dimensions, and facial characteristics. In turn, you will need to adjust your style and placement of lashes depending on the look you are trying to achieve. We will look more at how you can plan for a specific outcome later in this modules when we cover lash maps in more detail. As you may have identified yourself, the overall look of this lash style is dependent on the number of natural lashes the client has, so it works best with clients who already have a sufficient amount of lashes. For clients with sparse natural lashes seeking a more dramatic look, a volume lash style or hybrid style may be more suitable.

Volume lash application

Russian volume

The Russian volume lash technique is the original volume style and is also referred to as ‘volume lash extensions’ or ‘XD lash extensions’. This look was invented by Russian artists Olga Debronravova and Irina Levchuck in 2017, when the duo decided to test out using two lashes instead of the classic one lash to achieve greater volume. Put simply, the Russian volume lash style is where technicians bond multiple lashes into ‘fans’ and then attach them to a single natural lash. The number of lashes bonded is known as the dimension, which is often referred to as ‘D’ (not to be confused with the D curl!). So, if you were to bond 2 lashes, this would equate to a fan categorised as ‘2D’. The image below provides an excellent visual representation of the differences between a classic lash and the various dimensions used with the Russian volume lash style:

Remember, as we covered earlier, the more lashes you use, the smaller the diameter needs to be. Additionally, in terms of length, Russian volume lashes are usually no more than 1mm-2mm longer than the natural lash. You should generally not exceed a length of 12mm to ensure the lashes will hold and not cause damage. Russian volume lashes can create a gorgeous glam look and can give the effect that your client is wearing permanent eyeliner – how good is that! Using a Russian volume lash style does require a higher level of skill and mastery and will usually take anywhere from 3 to 4 hours to apply. To create Russian volume lashes, you will generally opt for lashes with a diameter between 0.05mm to 0.10mm, with no more than 5/6 lashes in each fan.

Mega volume

The main difference between Russian volume and mega volume is the number of lashes, and you guessed it – the weight of each lash is less! Mega volume lashes are more dramatic than Russian volume lashes and will have anywhere from 6 to 16 lashes for every natural lash (6:1 to 16:1). In turn, the lash diameter will usually be between 0.03mm and 0.05mm per lash, and they will generally be slightly longer than Russian volume lashes. Since the lash diameter for mega volume lashes is so small, you need to be really careful about where you place/position the fans, and it can be challenging to grab them with tweezers – so practice, practice, practice!

Hybrid lash application

If you want the best of both worlds, a hybrid lash application is a good option. Hybrid lashes are also referred to as a mixed set, American volume, Kardashian lashes or combination lashes. They use the classic lash application and a volume application in a 50/50 mix. The hybrid lash style is excellent for clients who have gaps in their lashes or when they are sparse. If you have a client who wants both volume and length, hybrid lashes can be a fantastic way to help them achieve their lash goals! Because a hybrid lash style uses a combination of styles, this also reduces the overall appointment time – taking approximately 2 to 2.5 hours.

The hybrid lash is an evolution of the Russian volume lash and is often preferred by clients who want the drama, while maintaining a more natural look. When using this technique, it is common for lash technicians to use multiple lengths across the lash line, which creates a more ‘organic’ lash look. Hybrid lashes tend to be longer and can sometimes use sporadic lengths reaching up to 14mm. Because this style can easily mirror a client’s natural lash growth pattern, they are easier to maintain and fill in contrast with Russian volume lashes.

Textured classic lash application (exclusive to AestheticsED)

The exclusive textured classic lash set is designed to create a natural but fluffy effect. Typically classic sets are completed using a single lash (1:1), but this set is actually done with volume lashes, usually 0.05mm or 0.03mm, depending on the strength of your client’s natural lashes. Are you ready for the critical point of difference? Instead of fanning out our volume lashes, you just pick up a cluster of lashes (3-10 depending on weights) and apply this cluster to the natural lash. The fundamental technique to ensure the application is successful is to keep your cluster positioned together (not fanned) to create a classic lash effect. Using volume lashes, your bond to the natural lash is a lot stronger due to the wrapping on the base (this will be explained in more detail later). By using volume lashes, it will not only help with longer retention but will also give the illusion of a fuller classic set.