Applying faultless nail enhancements is only one of the duties required of a Pro Nail Technician. We also need to know what to do when presented with existing enhancements. The two options you have when presented with grown-out enhancements are an infill (also known as a backfill or rebalance) or a removal. We will cover both gel and acrylic infill techniques in upcoming lessons.
The art of safely and efficiently removing various types of nail enhancements is a crucial skill. In this session, we will look at three prominent removal methods that are used in the industry: the drill-off method, the foil method, and the soak-off method.
The drill-off method involves the use of your e-drill to gently file away acrylic or gel enhancements. This technique requires precision and care to ensure the natural nail remains undamaged. We’ll explore the proper usage of the drill, suitable bits, and best practices to minimise any potential risks.
The second method, the foil method, is a popular and effective way to remove both gel and acrylic nails. This process involves wrapping the nails with acetone-soaked cotton balls and the covering with aluminium foil, allowing for a controlled and efficient removal process.
Finally, the soak-off involves immersing the nails in acetone, ensuring a gentle and non-invasive process for both the technician and the client.
By the end of this lesson, you’ll have a comprehensive understanding of these three removal techniques, allowing you to provide exceptional service to your clients while maintaining the health and integrity of their natural nails.
Removal process
Let’s recap the steps involved in each of the removal techniques:
All procedures:
Have your client wash their hands and nails with antibacterial soap and warm water. If hand-washing facilities unavailable, have them thoroughly sanitise with a gel or foam hand sanitiser.
Conduct a consultation with your client to determine what product/s is/are present on their nails to allow you to plan your removal process. Remember, hard gels (structural or builder gel) will not break down with the use of solvents (acetone) and so will need to be drilled off.
Examine your client’s nails and fingers for any contraindications that will prevent treatment. If present, discontinue your service and refer them to a medical professional.
Apply some acetone to a lint free nail wipe and thoroughly wide down each nail to remove any nail polish or natural oils. If removing nail polish, you will need multiple wipes with acetone applied.
Drill-off method:
Insert your barrel drill bit into your E-drill and turn on the drill to a low setting.
Working down the nail away from the cuticles, move the rotating drill across the nail surface without applying any downward pressure. Always keep the drill moving and work across the nail, never on one section for too long to avoid heat build up and discomfort.
Once the enhancement is exposed and you can clearly see the artificial length, use your e-drill to reduce the length of the enhancement.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently push back the cuticles from the nail plate.
Using either your 150 or 180 grit nail file, file away any remaining product from the surface of the nail, and then shape the nails to your desired shape.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Insert your diamond cuticle drill bit into your E-drill and clean up around the cuticle area.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Foil method:
Insert your barrel drill bit into your E-drill and turn on the drill to a low setting. Remove the bulk of the product using your E-drill.
Cut some aluminium foil into rectangle pieces.
Soak a cotton ball in acetone and place onto the first nail. Wrap a piece of aluminium foil around the finger and cotton ball.
Repeat on all fingers.
Allow the acetone to break down the product for 10-15 minutes. After this time, remove the foil from each finger by gently pressing the end of the foil where the cotton ball is sitting and slide the foil off the finger maintaining pressure. Set the foils aside for reuse.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently scrape off the broken down product and wipe onto a brush mat.
Using your E-drill with barrel bit inserted, remove excess length.
Using your E-drill with barrel bit inserted, file off any product that has re-cured.
If, after drilling the surface, there is still product present, slide the foils back onto the fingers and allow to break down for a further 10 minutes. Be sure the cotton ball is positioned on top of the nail when repositioning.
Allow the acetone to break down the product for a further 10 minutes. After this time, remove the foils.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently scrape off the broken down product and wipe onto a brush mat.
Using either your 150 or 180 grit nail file, file away any remaining product from the surface of the nail, and then shape the nails to your desired shape.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently push back the cuticles from the nail plate.
Insert your diamond cuticle drill bit into your E-drill and clean up around the cuticle area.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Soak-off method:
Insert your barrel drill bit into your E-drill and turn on the drill to a low setting. Remove the bulk of the product using your E-drill.
Remove the top of your nail bath and pour in warm to hot tap water so it is filled to approximately one third of the way up the side walls.
Replace the top and secure before filling each of the five finger wells with 100% pure acetone.
Bring the bath to your workspace and place your clients fingers into the finger wells, ensuring you have used enough acetone to completely submerge all nails.
Let the nails soak for 10-15 minutes.
After this time, remove the nails from the bath and, using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently scrape off the broken down product and wipe onto a brush mat.
Using your E-drill with barrel bit inserted, remove excess length.
Using your E-drill with barrel bit inserted, file off any product that has re-cured.
If, after drilling the surface, there is still product present, return the fingers to the nail bath for a further 5-10 minutes.
Allow the acetone to break down the product for a further 5-10 minutes. After this time, remove the nails from the bath.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently scrape off the broken down product and wipe onto a brush mat.
Using either your 150 or 180 grit nail file, file away any remaining product from the surface of the nail, and then shape the nails to your desired shape.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently push back the cuticles from the nail plate.
Insert your diamond cuticle drill bit into your E-drill and clean up around the cuticle area.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.