We will now progress onto completing a full set of natural tips, this time using acrylic.
Application process
Let’s recap the steps involved in providing a full set of natural acrylic tips:
Natural nail prep (for damaged cuticles)
Have your client wash their hands and nails with antibacterial soap and warm water. If hand-washing facilities unavailable, have them thoroughly sanitise with a gel or foam hand sanitiser.
Examine your client’s nails and fingers for any contraindications that will prevent treatment. If present, discontinue your service and refer them to a medical professional. If you assess some damage/irritation to the cuticles, or any other condition/s that may not prevent treatment but may affect the outcome, discuss this with your client. Advise them of any risks to them or the quality of the treatment resulting from these conditions and ensure they are happy to proceed.
Apply some acetone to a lint free nail wipe and thoroughly wide down each nail to remove any nail polish or natural oils. If removing nail polish, you will need multiple wipes with acetone applied.
Using the curved end of your cuticle pusher, gently push back the cuticle from the nail plate. Examine each cuticle as you go to be sure there is no broken skin, as these areas will need to be treated with added caution.
Using your 180 grit nail file, scuff the surface of each nail ready for product application before shaping the nails to the desired shape.
Using your E-drill (set to a low speed) with your diamond cuticle bit inserted, remove any remaining cuticle around the very edge of the nail.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Attaching and preparing tips
Bring your box of tips to your treatment area and select an appropriate sized tip for each nail. Ensure each tip sits perfectly flush with each side wall. If a nail is between two tip sizes, select the larger (wider) tip and file down the side walls.
Using your nail glue, glue each tip to the applicable natural nail.
Reconfirm with your client the desired length and shape, and then trim the tips using a tip cutter. Leave enough length to file into shape.
If required, mark the tips with a marker to assist with symmetry when filing into shape. Once marked, trim the corners of your tips with your nail scissors, again, leaving enough excess for shaping.
Using either a nail file or your e-drill, scuff the surface of each tip ready for product application.
Using your 100 grit nail file, file each tip into shape and blend into the natural nail surface.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Acrylic product application
Apply acrylic sequentially to zones 1, 2 and 3 on each nail and tip, ensuring you apply adequate product to be able to file them to achieve a symmetrical C curve from side wall to side wall, and an apex at the point where zones 2 and 3 intersect.
Once cured, using your 100 grit nail file, shape your nails to achieve the desired structure. Constantly pause and turn your client’s nail to view it from all angles to assess the formation of your structure.
Using your block buffer, buff the surface of each nail.
Using your 240 grit nail file, further buff the surface of each nail.
Brush away any nail dust created from filing with your nail brush.
Apply nail cleanser to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail.
Gel finish
Apply an even coat of gel base coat to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Apply gel top coat to all nails, avoiding the cuticles by 1-2mm. Once applied, cure under your UV light for 60 seconds.
Using your 180 grit nail file, give the underside of the free edge, and the side walls, a gentle file in order to remove any cured gel product from these areas.
Apply nail cleanser to a lint free nail wipe and wipe down each nail to remove any dust.
Place a single drop of cuticle oil at the base of each nail and massage into the cuticles.
Practical Exercise
Please do not attempt to complete the below Practical Exercise until you have thoroughly reviewed the above video tutorial multiple times and feel confident in your techniques.
In preparation for your next assignment, complete a full set of natural acrylic tips on 2-3 friends or family. Use models with varying natural nail characteristics, and try out some different lengths and nail shapes with your finished sets.